By Sparky

When it comes to tires there are several things to look at. First thing you need to check is your air pressure. Second thing is to check your tread life. Third item to monitor is the age of your tire. Proper maintenance of tires is the key to having them last longer and keep you safe.

Tires have a weight rating associated with the amount of air in the tire. Michelin tire company did a study that the air pressure in the tire in association with the weight applied changes the temperature of the tire surface. The lower the air pressure the higher the temperature. High
temperature of tire surface causes the tire to permanently change shape over time.

To maintain proper traction you are relying on proper tread depth. The minimum safe tread depth is 2/32”. This can easily be measured with a tread depth gauge. If you don’t have a gauge you can use a penny. By turning the penny upside down and inserting it in the tread of the tire.
If the tread is above Lincoln’s head, the tire is good. If below Lincoln’s head your tire requires replacement.

Additionally the age of the tire plays a major role. If a tire is over five years old the department of transportation states that it is not safe for use. You can identify the age of a tire by looking at the DOT number. The last four digits of the number are the week and year the tire was manufactured. When tires get old the rubber gets hard and slick.

To recap, check your tire pressure regularly; check the tread wear prior to riding; keep an eye on the tire age. I challenge everyone to stop by the shop and pick up your free tire tread depth gauge. If you have any questions, ask one of our technicians and we will assist you.

Note from Reine: Please be careful purchasing tire “deals” off the internet. We have had customers come in after purchasing on line and tires are over five years old. They may have never been used, but the rubber is hard and slick. Light Love Peace Out

We have officially made it through 2020! Maybe you spent some time in quarantine and had a chance to think about what you would like to accomplish this year; or how you would spend your stimulus check. Most of you think motorcycle, and that’s ok. Now come all the questions. Do you want to go faster, further, louder or just tweak some cosmetics? How do you go about making these changes?  Face lifts aren’t cheap and toning can take time but that’s what we are here for. Knowing what you want to accomplish in the end is the first step. So how can you be prepared when you come into your favorite motorcycle shop with a specific design or upgrade in mind?

   The process of any new build is to have your end vision in mind.  Jan suggests going through magazines and picking out what you like.  It could easily be a front end from one picture, back end from another, and wheels off a completely different model bike.  Are you into the latest trends?  Then Hot Bike or Baggers are good magazines to look at.  If you attend bike shows take pictures of what draws you to a specific bike.  Handle bars can change the whole look of a bike as can saddlebags.  The more information you have of what you want to achieve the better we can help you.  While your bike is on the table, do you want to upgrade your sound with a new audio system?  Try to think of everything you are wanting and what works for your style.  Once you have the end vision in mind, then we can help you pick out the parts that work together on your frame and within your budget.  Having all the changes you want to make ahead of time can help with the budgeting also.  Making changes midway through a build will increase the expense as well as increase the time frame to complete a build.  

   Updating your engine is a completely different animal.  Again, what is your end game?  Do you want your engine to go the distance for cruising America?  Are you more interested in fuel economy for your daily driver to and from work?  Or is being the fastest in your group of riders important to you?  Make sure you talk to a professional before rebuilding an engine.  In Jan’s own words “don’t try to mix match a bunch of shit that doesn’t work together”.  It becomes a nightmare and more expensive to make it right.  One brand or part of an engine may advertise that they will make your ride go fast and another brand/part may help with fuel economy, but that doesn’t mean they work together and the end result can be a sluggish bike with great fuel economy or just not working at all.

   I learned the following about engine upgrades while writing this article:

            Stage I – upgrade air cleaner, exhaust and tune

            Stage II – upgrade internal cams and small changes to the pistons

            Stage III – upgrade to a more aggressive cam and larger pistons

            Stage IV – upgrade cams, cylinders, pistons and head work

  So how will your baby celebrate the New Year?  In hibernation on a battery tender; getting a facelift with new curves; or toning her up with a fresh engine rebuild?  Whatever you choose, know we are here to help! 

Peace Out,  Reine